Not a euphenism, a sad statement of fact. Despite leaving Austin’s Hyde Park neighborhood at 10:30am, I didn’t arrive in Blanco until after dark, seven and a half biking hours later. Only one person honked at me on the road into Blanco, a road far too highly traveled and no-shouldered for my comfort. Amazingly, the guy actually pulled off the road a good distance ahead to tell me that he’d almost killed me. I don’t even remember my response. I think I was trying not to hyperventilate at that point. I told him I wasn’t happy to be here either, and I just needed to get to the State Park. But he didn’t even know where that was, less than two miles away. I should have told him, “You’re the only person who’s honked at me out of the dozens that have passed. Maybe everyone else is paying better attention to the road. I am sorry my back light isn’t working, but after all, I could have been a deer.”
Anyway, the day was long, but there were some bright points. Leaving Austin wasn’t really one of them. It’s depressing how long it takes to get clear of a metropolis; I think I was in the southwest exurbs of Austin a good two hours after I’d left. I’d already traveled through the area on the Organic Farm bike tour from hell (incredibly bad routing along very fast highways), so I knew a few highways that were pleasant and a few that were horrible. I was following a route I’d found on bikely.com, but I decided to mix it up at the beginning, because I didn’t want to get on 360 (a famous biking route even though a biker dies there every couple of years). While I was biking past Westgate, I was told by a police on motorcycle that I had to pull over to give the funeral procession right of way. It was a long procession. It’s a tradition I’m not sure I believe in anymore, the big long parade from funeral to burial. It seems passive-aggressively showy.
It turns out my Trek urban fitness bike doesn’t have gears as low as my Bike Friday. I shouldn’t be surprised, I guess, but boy did it make going up the hills of Texas Hill Country hard, despite the fact that all of my gear must have been quite a bit lighter. Hill Country was beautiful, and by the time I got deep into it, the clouds had disappeared and I was feeling the intense sun, even in November. I made a point of taking my water breaks in shade instead of sun. The fields were covered in a golden tall grass, with green roots, like chlorine-damaged blond hair. Fields that were meant for cattle grazing looked an awful lot like similar pastureland in Wisconsin, with the shade trees and the creeks.
I got to Pedernales State Park by about 3, and thought of staying there, but I didn’t want a long day to San Antonio, so I kept going. Perhaps not the best decision. Or maybe it was. I only got to TJ’s house in San Antonio about a half an hour before dusk, and biking in San Antonio after dark seems pretty horrible.
Anyway, it was nice, the sky was still blue, though the sun was getting lower, and I was in Hill Country in the middle of nowhere. In fact, I got to bike down some roads with loose livestock. I avoided quite a few cow pies in the road, and then I had to stop for some cows. I even took pictures. The next back road I turned onto was gravel. I took strength from the idea that maybe gravel roads would be flatter than paved roads. It was vaguely true. I ended up having to ford a creek, barely flowing over the road, but my feet got a tiny bit wet. At that point I was pretty concerned that I wasn’t going to get to Blanco before dark, and fording the creek didn’t put me in a better mood. But seeing the armadillo did! It was digging in the dirt just off the road. At that point I was talking outloud to myself and it, and it was pretty much unconcerned with me. I got my camera out for a few photos, even. It was pretty exciting to see a live one. My coworker from Vanu Inc, Jeff, once asked if I’d even seen a live armadillo, since you see tons of dead ones along the road driving around MidTex. And now I have. It was pretty cute.
So that high lasted a good few kilometers, but then I started to get worried again. I got onto the main road that would lead me into Blanco before dusk, but I didn’t know how far it was to Blanco from there. Too long. I got my headlamp and rear light out after a big hill didn’t turn out to lead me to Blanco. Unfortunately my rear light didn’t have much in the way of batteries. I was surprised there was only one honker, actually.
I made my way to the state park via the grocery store where I ended up buying one small can of Campbell’s pork and beans. It had a pull-off lid. I paid $21 dollars to camp at the State Park (and was told in the morning that the park manager found the envelope only half-stuck in the slot), and I had to go ask the host for the shower code. There comes a point in a biker’s day when reading signs is hard. I had a really hard time figuring out that I could find the shower code from someplace other than Headquarters, which was closed at that point. The idea of there being a shower that I couldn’t access rattled my brains.
I ate, drank a liter of water and a Squirt, read Blood Meridian, a true tale of violence on the Texas border as told by Cormac McCarthy. Jessie had recommended it to me a while ago, and I thought that if I were ever going to read it, now was the time. It’s a different Texas. A bloody killing kind of Texas.
I tried to go to sleep, but my muscles were cramping and sore. Despite being pretty full, I ate a Lara Bar for the potassium. I should have gotten Gatorade instead of Squirt, but I couldn’t resist reliving college memories with the great grapefruit taste.